Linda Schettle - Bent Bike
This photo was taken at the peak of a very frustrating day, thus the camera settings were a complete surprise when the photo was later viewed. While panning, I also had bracketing exposures set. For fun I combined the images to create an HDR image and this is the result. I then added some saturation, contrast and an oil painting filter.
- Opened the capture of Railway Tracks from a bridge on the 3RD November 2016 at 11:37 am at 4mm (∫3.3 @ 1/400 of a second ISO 125) with a Nikon Coolpix S3300.
- The editing for this capture will be done using the 64 version of Corel PaintShop Pro Ultimate X9
• Resized to 1050 pixels x ? and saved as TRACKS 01.
• Clicked on File.
• Clicked on HDR.
• Clicked on Exposure Merge.
• Clicked on Progress.
• Clicked on pspHDR02 of many choices available
• Clicked on Suggested Sections where I could have modified the (Brightness, Shadows, Highlights, and Saturations) values.
• Clicked on Edit saved as TRACKS 02.
• Clicked on Effects.
• Clicked on Art Media Effects.
• Clicked on Brush Strokes.
• Clicked on Factory Defaults saved as TRACKS 03.
• Clicked on Palette.
• Ran the Palette (Border with Drop Shadow) saved as TRACKS 04.
• Used the Un-Sharp Mask Settings of 120%.1, 10 saved as TRACKS 05.
• You are looking at my fake painting of a set of Railway Tracks.
1. Image as out of camera -a grab shot- liked the theme but needed work.
2. Edited in Lightroom – better, but I didn’t like the out of focus foreground and cropping didn’t work.
3.Opened in Photoshop Elements 11.
4. Made a Background copy and applied a Filter-Texture-Craquellure – result was not a photo and not art
5. Made another layer and learned the importance of renaming the layers. I am not sure what I did here but it looks like I applied a cream coloured overlay. This left things a little dark.
6. Made a levels layer and made adjustments.
7. Made a Brightness/Contrast layer and lightened it up.
8. Saved as a PSD file with layers.
9. Final image – more of a canvas art look and the out of focus foreground is not as intrusive.
I was asked to talk about a photo you may have seen on the Facebook page around Halloween called “Squirrel Selfie”
I’ve done a variety of squirrel shots over the past 5 years and have some before and after photos.
There are a few factors that can make or break a good photo. First you need the squirrels to come around. The squirrels in my yard are fed very well so I have an idea when they will be there. The light is also important. Depending on the time of day the sun can cast shadows on the props or full sun can be too harsh. The squirrels will also mess us the props in the setup when they come for the food or another common issue is they eat with their back to me! Everything has to come together…so it’s all about luck and timing.
I put peanut butter and peanuts on the props to entice them to get close, then wait for the right moment to shoot. There are many bad, unusable shots that I take before I get the one I like. I used different camera settings with each shot, but it is ideal to have a fast shutter speed.
All the photos are real and the only Photoshop I do is removing a wire that may hold up a prop or clean up debris from the nuts. The hardest part for me is coming up with a new idea.
1 – Title Shot – Pretty Kitty – (Lexi) – Image I was asked to talk about.
2 – As shot from camera – raw format – taken with Point & Shoot Camera.
3 – Cropped a bit.
4 – Levels correction and sharpened.
5 – Nik Software – Silver Efex Pro – Antique Plate Filter.
6 – Photoshop – Filter – Poster Edges.
7 – Roxy (Lexi’s sister) – raw image as shot from camera.
8 – Same adjustments added to this photo to demonstrate another before and after example of this process.
- Starting image
- Created a layer mask to extract desired portion of image
- Created a new document with white background
- Imported masked layer
- Added layer style of Bevel/Emboss & Drop Shadow
- Created duplicates of layer and arranged in a row, grouped layers together.
- Added a shape layer above group and applied to only the group below.
- Adjust colour and blend mode to suit.
- Repeat for remaining rows
- Original Image – Blah but I liked the pose…..looks like the Downy Woodpecker has a foot on the branch
- Unrestrained crop I used
- Duplicate layer added in Photoshop. Water colour and Poster Edges filters added. Opacity slider used to tone down some of the effect. Flatten layer after each filter is used and make another duplicate layer.
- Painting Filter added. Flatten layer.
- Duplicate layer and add Topaz Impression coloured pencil filter. Use opacity slider if necessary to tone down the filter.
- Reminders when adding filters.
Techniques involved in creation of Rebecca for Creative Shorts Night of the Hamilton Camera Club
1. Visited Battlefield (Gage) House with some friends prior to Christmas 2015.
2. Not that great at exposures all the so sure camera was set to RAW
3. Didn’t wish to take hours used Portrait Mode of the Pentax *ist DL2 still in RAW
4. The following of our tour of the Monument build in 1913 Rebecca the Tour Guide modeled for a few captures
a. Opened the files in Camera-in-the-RAW (basic tab)
i. Straighten the Image
ii. Set Temperature to 4650
iii. Set Tint to 20
iv. Exposure to +0.75
v. Blacks to 15
vi. Brightness to 9
vii. Contrast to 50
b. Looked great in Colour but the Monument and Rebecca look out of a time prior to colour film so need to be in monochomatic
i. Back to settings in Camera-in-the-RAW
(1) Blacks to 30
(2) Moved Contrast to 100
(3) Clarity to 49
(4) Saturation to – 100
(5) Opened in PHOTOSHOP
ii. Saved in PHOTOSHOP default format
iii. Closed the file
5. Recently been given Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo and opened it
6. Opened the PHOTOSHOP file
7. In the EFFECT MENU selected PHOTO EFFECTS
8. Selected from their selected TIME MACHINE
9. Selected from their DAGUERREOTYPE
10. Settings from the Daguerreotype
a. Intensity 75
b. No Photo frame
11. Applied Green Filter with a intensity of 30%
12. Saved the file once again in PHOTOSHOP
13. Opened in PHOTOSHOP once again
14. Posterized 10
15. Cropped the File to 1050 pixles for height and let width fall where it happened
16. Resized the canvas to allow for the width of 1450 pixles so fit our display
17. Using the UNSHARP MASK settings of 150% 1 10
18. Saved in JPEG with the name of “Rebecca.JPG” to Juraj so would be able displayed on CREATIVE SHORTS night
1. Start with a picture. Ha Ha. I used as long of an exposure as I could to give motion to the water. By doing this I can limit the post production blurring. If I had had a ten stop ND filter we might be done now.
2. Duplicate the layer. Straighten the horizon. Obvious I know but easy to start with.
3. Here I use motion blur in the direction of the water flow.
4. So now there are two layers. One blurred and one not blurred. The non blurred image above the blurred one. Select the non blurred image and press the Alt key (Windows… Option key Mac), and the mask button. A black mask should appear beside the non blurred layer and the image should be blurred. With the mask selected and by using the paint brush and the colour white, paint in the areas that you want to be sharp.
5. Repeat the same procedure or workflow if you prefer photoshop lingo, for the sky. Radial blur is used to get the effect.
6. In this step, (I hope you are not getting bored yet because I am going to make you use all your fingers on your left hand and one on your right hand for this next step. At least that is how I do it. Simultaneously, press SHIFT,CTRL,ALT and E, (SHIFT,OPTION,COMMAND,E on a Mac). Didn’t believe me did you?? This blends all the layers into one layer but does not flatten the image so you can still see your steps. On this layer select most of the sky but leave some room near the horizon so that the horizon line isn’t altered. Next by pressing SELECT, MODIFY and FEATHER, feather the edges by a few pixels. The real fun happens now when you get to Press EDIT, TRANSFORM, WARP. This gives you a grid pattern over the selected area where you get to push, pull etc. the sky as much as you like.
7. Finally, and I don’t usually talk this much so it is very exhausting, I saved the image back into Lightroom to edit in Black and White. If you have a version of Photoshop that allows you this… you may under FILTER to go into Camera Raw. Here you can do the same thing. Or you can convert to B&W any way you want or stop now and go have a glass wine. For me it wasn’t time to drink yet so I continued in Lightroom making it B&W and adding highlights and shadows where I thought that it was appropriate to do so.
- This is the image originally submitted to a clinic, which I was asked to talk about. The clinic definition of a creative image includes changes in form, shape or colour. This image was only intended to portray changes in colour. Since I had only kept this JPEG version together with its original RAW file, the following steps are only an approximation to those originally used.
- The RAW, unprocessed image from my camera. This was taken just after sunrise in late August – the only time that this part of Venice is tranquil and uncrowded at this time of year! Exposure was ISO 2000, f6.3 @1/60 due to the poor light. Even so, it did look much better to the human eye than to the camera!
- Image after lens and perspective correction in Lightroom, minor cropping and cloning out of plastic debris in the canal in Photoshop, and noise reduction using the Topaz Denoise plugin.
- Using the Topaz Clarity (a contrast enhancing plugin), ‘sunny day, blue sky’ pre-set in the ‘landscape’ collection further adjustment was undertaken with the sliders on the right.
- The Topaz Restyle pre-set ‘tail light red’ in the ‘street’ collection was used as a starting point and the image was tweaked with the adjustment sliders on the right of the screen.
- Image was sharpened using Topaz Detail.
- Screenshot of final Photoshop image after minor adjustment of brightness/contrast.
- This is the resulting JPEG image. As described above, this image is only an approximation to the originally submitted version.